Why We Don’t Make Creams...

A quiet musing from the apothecary.

In Nana Kat’s Apothecary, we craft our skincare with the belief that skin thrives when tended with simplicity, intention, and the wisdom of the earth.

This is why our shelves hold Facial Oil Elixirs rather than traditional creams. Let me share the reasoning behind this choice.

Did you know that Moisturising Creams are mostly water held together by a web of emulsifiers, stabilisers, thickeners, and preservatives...

Cosmetic Manufacturers have told us that moisturisers are what we need to keep our skin moisturised, however, did you know that typically mainstream moisturisers consist of a significant percentage of water, 75% to 90%. There is very little benefit in having this level of water (apart from keeping their cost down).

Water-based formulas necessitate the inclusion of preservatives to prevent microbial, fungal and mould growth, typically comprising around 1% to 2% of the formulation. Common cheap and synthetic preservatives (including endocrine-disrupting parabens) can be toxic and have no beneficial properties for skin. (find out more here)

To stabilise the mixture of water and oil-based ingredients, emulsifiers are added, constituting about 2% to 8% of the product. These emulsifiers ensure that water and oil components remain evenly distributed, preventing separation and ensuring a consistent texture. Although emulsifiers can be helpful for the skin in some circumstances, we don't think they belong in moisturisation.

While cream moisturisers contain some "active" ingredients such as humectants (e.g., glycerin, hyaluronic acid) and occlusives (e.g., mineral oil, animal fats or plant-based oils) to lock in moisture, the concentration of these active occlusive ingredients (1% to 20%) tends to be limited. Therefore, their efficacy in providing long-term benefits may be limited in some moisturisers.

In contrast, 100% pure plant-based facial oils consist of nutrient-rich oils and botanical extracts, without the need for preservatives or emulsifiers. These oils can penetrate the skin more deeply, delivering a higher concentration of beneficial compounds such as vitamins, antioxidants, and fatty acids. As a result, when used properly, facial oils may offer superior nourishment and moisturisation without leaving skin feeling oily or heavy.

The Skin’s Barrier Knows Oils Like an Old Friend

Your skin’s outer layer is made of lipids (natural oils), ceramides, and a living community of friendly microorganisms known as the microbiome. Together, they form your skin barrier, the quiet guardian that keeps moisture in, irritants out, and harmony intact.

But when life presses in—weather shifts, central heating hums, stress flares, harsh skincare over-cleanses or overwhelms with unnecessary chemicals—this delicate system becomes depleted. The barrier thins, the microbiome loses balance, and skin becomes unhappy, reactive, or lifeless and dull.

This is where natural botanical oils shine (without being shiny). Facial oils restore what time and modern living have robbed. They nourish both the barrier and the microbiome by offering the lipids, antioxidants and essential fatty acids the skin instinctively recognises. They help the skin:

• hold on to hydration and moisture

• softens lines, textural roughness and evens out tones

• calms irritation and reactive skin

• support a balanced, thriving microbiome

• rediscover its natural glow

  
  

So how do you keep hydrated and moisturised with an oil?

Cleanse your skin; (spray a hydrosol if you use one); and when your skin is still damp; add a few drops of one of our Elixirs. The oil locks in hydration and feeds the skin - it is that simple.

Hydrated, moisturised and glowing A simple, intentional routine that strengthens, restores, and honours the skin’s own wisdom.

If you’re new to facial oils and worried your skin might feel oily—especially if it already feels oily—rest assured. Our Elixirs absorb in moments, often under 30 seconds, leaving no residue behind. Made from high-quality, cold-pressed oils with naturally small molecules, they sink deeply into the skin, nourishing from within rather than sitting on the surface.

Make the switch. Your skin will tell you why you won’t go back.

THE SEER

• For wise & mature skin (and award-winning!)

• A rich blend of Calendula, Rosehip & Sea Buckthorn Oils — softening, smoothing and deeply replenishing.

THE ASTROLOGER

• For dry, sensitive, reactive or combination skin

• Infused with soothing Evening Primrose, Apricot, Sea Buckthorn for moisture, calm, and balance.

THE ORACLE

• For oily or acne-prone skin

• Featuring Hemp, Jojoba, with Arnica-infused Sunflower Oil — clarifying, balancing, and glow-boosting.

If you would like to know more about our ingredients and why we use them, have a wee look at our Ingredients Almanac - including research papers...

If you would like to know more about the ingredients we don't use and why, including the research, have a wee look at Our Ethos...